Where do I start, Halifax is a great city and like most that have an amazing waterfront there is lots to see and do.
Last night I enjoyed a harbour cruise on a tall ship that lasted about a hour and a half. Amazed at the number of naval ships in the harbour. Which brings me to my tour of the Maritime Marine museum. Obviously highlighted a lot of Naval wartime battles, but also the history of the Canadian navy. A lot on display about the Titanic as the dead were brought to Halifax, as well as the history of Canadian Steamships including several that brought a lot of our ancestors to Canada through Pier 21. I was impressed by the tour of the Acadia which up until 1969 mapped a lot of the eastern coastline waterways, and the HMCS Sackville Corvette which saw duty chasing down the dreaded German UBoats. Interesting reading about how successful these UBoats were on convoys of ships trying to cross the ocean, particularly once they got out of air support reach. Also learned about the great Halifax fire of 1917 when two ships in the harbour collided, one carrying thousands of pounds of wartime explosives. 2000 people died and approximately 9000 in total injured. It is considered the largest man made explosion prior to the development of nuclear weapons. Effectively 2400 metric tonnes of TNT.
Betty had two days at the spa, which cost me about as much ($395) for two new Swalbe tires, and a new chain and cassette. The cassette has a new ratio which I noticed today was a little better on the endless hills in Nova Scotia’s north east. I did see some new attachments that hold growlers of beer! Was tempted to add these on the the front, but figured Betty already had enough weight to deal with she wouldn’t be impressed.
As you could have guessed I spent more than my fair share of 48hrs visiting the local watering holes. The best pub I found for beer selection was Maxwell Plums, Durty Nellys Irish Pub had the best entertainment with two fiddlers playing most of the evening Thursday. The Split Crow and The Lower Deck are just must see pubs. Lots of relaxing patios near the water to enjoy lunch and a drink. There truly is no end to the list of fun establishments whether it is on the waterfront, on Argyle street or off one of the side streets!
Off course late night hunger sets in and a stop at Pizza Corner is required. Large Donair Thursday night and a Donair Pizza slice Friday night…that was tame for me as previously I remember that being the standard order for one evening! I stuffed myself with many orders of fish and chips, some mussels, scallops but no oysters. Sadly I couldn’t see paying $3 an oyster and thinking they are any better than Rodney’s? I’ll save those for my final celebration in St Johns.
The hostel was a busy place as you could imagine, located on Barrington street a short walk from all the action. I headed out this morning at 820am, found a quick bite to eat just before discovering that the Ferry to Dartmouth doesn’t start running on Sundays till 11am. Not a big deal, just meant me and my anxiety over heights would be challenged on the MacDonald bridge. Thankfully there is a separate lane for cyclists and a 10ft high barrier to make me feel secure. The ride away from Halifax on Marine Drive (hwy 7) has some spectacular sights overlooking several coves. Unfortunately it has absolutely NO shoulder and at times was quite busy with traffic. Enjoyed my first screamer today…that would be some young jerk who yelled profanities at me, advising me I would be better off not on the road. This stretch of road reminded a lot of northern Ontario, the beautiful views, little to no shoulder and the hills. I fear my last 14 cycling days will be constant rollers with a few hard climbs thrown in for good measure. It didn’t help me today that I spent the last 48hrs sampling every beer in Halifax, but like I was going to say no when the waitress/bartender came by? It was a long day in the saddle today, should be better prepared (ie nourished and hydrated) for tomorrow.
Found my camp near Sheet Harbour at 6pm after having some seafood pasta at a local restaurant in town (no beer, think I should dry out for a day or two?). Nice spot right on The East River that runs into the Sheet Harbour Cove. Interesting house boat in the picture. Just saw an osprey (or maybe a Gillygalu bird?) dive the water for a fish! The camp owner let me know that in the morning the seals will chase the mackerel up river, they only take one bite out of them near the liver and leave the rest of the fish, which the bald eagles in the area finish off. Should be an interesting morning!
Daily cycle: 110.9km
Daily cycle time: 6hrs 2min